Tswalu

A conservation initiative

Tswalu means “new beginning” and this reserve is part of an ambitious effort to restore the Kalahari to itself. It was originally a hunting preserve owned by Stephen Bowler, and when he died the ownership passed to Nicky Oppenheimer, the former chairman of De Beers and a passionate conservationist. Over 25 years the family has overseen its preservation and currently employ more than 250 people including lodge managers and staff as well as teams responsible for restocking the reserve and ensuring security. Everyone is deeply invested — not least the Oppenheimer family who still participate in the annual game count each year.

An exceptional wilderness experience

Covering 120 000 hectares of rolling red dunes and fringed by mountains, Tswalu is the largest privately conserved land in South Africa — with less than 40 guests at a time enjoying an area more than twice the size of the Sabi Sands.  It’s extremely rare to see another vehicle or share a sighting and, being alone, unhurried and sometimes on foot in this wide and incredibly beautiful wilderness, is a rare treasure hard to describe. At night you will not see another light other than the most incredible stars.

Rare and unusual species

The rolling red dunes of Tswalu, which have a stunning mountain backdrop, are awash with white bushman grass that glows gold under the setting sun. The ancient and gnarled shepherd’s bush trees are weighed down heavily with the mighty nests of sociable weavers, and there are forests of silver-leafed Terminalias on the ridges. This landscape is roamed by black-maned lions, brown hyena, black rhino, oryx and also pangolin and aardvark. Over the years, the meerkats, cheetah, wild dogs and other game have become extremely accustomed to vehicles. It is often possible to approach them on foot which makes for outstanding photographic opportunities and experiences. 

Excellent staff

All the staff at Tswalu clearly love their work. Some of them have been at the lodge for more than 10 years.  On our recent visit, they were entirely focussed on providing an amazing guest experience — and they achieved this in an authentic and warm way where nothing was too much trouble. The guiding was excellent, and the kitchen was always open as and when you wanted to enjoy meals. It was easy to see why so many guests return to Tswalu year after year. 

A place for learning

Our guide made the experience highly educational — as did our tracker whose ability to track and predict animal movements was astounding. There were scientists at Tswalu too, studying all manner of species including pangolin, cheetah, weaver birds and insects, and they too were happy to engage with us and teach about nature.  Every booking at Tswalu is allocated a private vehicle including a guide and tracker which is exceptional for solo travellers wanting to be alone, photographers wishing to chase the light and for families with young children wanting a relaxed and flexible experience.  There’s no malaria in the Kalahari too, so it’s ideal for families. 

Kleinjan

The culinary highlight was Kleinjan — an extraordinary dining experienced created by South Africa’s first Michelin starred chef Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen. The journey started in a small tin-roof house, took us through a water tank and underground via a spiral staircase bejewelled with light and water features – it’s called the Petrichor and was named after that special smell of rain on dust that follows the first rains. We were led through the pantry and into a small farm kitchen area that recalled Jan’s early culinary influences growing up in a small town in South Africa and at every stage we enjoyed different culinary delights. Eventually we arrived in a spectacular open dining area with crisp linen, fine cutlery and glasses and views into the grasslands, and here the delicious experience continued. The delightful 12-course menu was inspired by the botanical inspirations of the Kalahari, ending in a room filled with different locally made cheeses and preserves – the room of thousand delights. A dinner or lunch there is included for all guests and it’s 100% wow.

The Tswalu camps

The camps at Tswalu were all luxurious — but also understated and elegant with gracious furniture and wonderful spaces all of which are designed to bring the outside in. You never forget where you are – even in the bed at Motse (the main camp) I fell asleep looking up at a detailed hand drawn map of Tswalu on the roof above me and relived the roads I had travelled and the places I had been. Motse has 9 suites and a central pool and dining area with many living spaces where every guest feels special and private. 

Tarkuni, a private villa situated in the remote southern part of the reserve, was the Oppenheimer’s private home and still houses many of their exquisite artworks. It is now booked exclusively with its own chef, guide and butlers. The new Loapi Tented Camp includes 6 unique homes each with their own private pool, kitchen and staff offers an upscale intimate retreat, amazing privacy and spectacular mountain views.

These pictures were taken over three days at Tswalu by David Rogers – who returned here in 2024 with his wife Jenni Saunders after a 20-year absence. It was an extremely special experience. If any photographers would like to visit Tswalu and have a private guide – I know one photographer whose bags will pack themselves.

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